Once we got to Split, things were immediately looking up. We arrived around 7 o’clock at night and checked into our (sworn off) hostel, which was immediately infinitely better than the last one. It was clean and we only shared with one other person who was in bed by 11. The town is right on the water and even though it was still very nice. We’ve noticed that the food here and in Italy are about the same style so we had some delicious pizza at a place recommended by the guy who runs the hostel.
The next morning we were planning on going straight to Dubrovnik but decided that we wanted to explore a little bit first. And, like any good day, it started in a bakery! After breakfast we wandered around the 1300-year-old castle for a little while and then headed up the hill where there are great views of the city. We had heard that there wasn’t much to do in Split, but what we did, we really enjoyed and part of it had to do with the fact that it was the off season which has its pros and cons. On the one hand, there are not so many people, things are cheaper, and you get an idea of how the people actually live. On the other hand, it’s cold.
The best part of this city came (like most good things do) with lunch. We headed off to another recommended place, which served traditional Dalmation (from the Dalmation Coast) food. I had a meat dish that I have forgotten the name of but it tasted a lot like goulasch served with gnocchi. Austin had “fried fish of the season.” The waiter apparently thought it was pretty funny that he was trying to eat the little fish (with their heads still on) and squid with his fingers so he kept winking and making faces from around the corner. After cuing us in on how to actually eat the local cuisine, he gave us another local specialty: pancakes! They are actually more like crepes filled with chocolate or marmelade. It was all very good and somehow a meal is always much better in retrospect when you get a complimentary desert out of it!
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